In the time of fuel crisis: commuting in Nepal

19 Jan 2016

In the time of fuel crisis: commuting in Nepal

By Patrick Ward

For months now, Nepal has been facing a fuel crisis. Buses in Kathmandu are packed at the best of times, but the protests over the country’s new constitution and the resultant border blockade have worsened the situation considerably. There are fewer vehicles on the road now—owners have been forced to leave their empty-tanked cars and bikes at home—and hence an increasing reliance on buses. Here’s a glimpse of daily life during the fuel crisis.

 

Dozens of people gather at Lagankhel bus station, listening as conductors call out their buses’ destinations. You have to be quick if you want a seat, or standing room, or something to hang on to. Photo: Patrick Ward

Dozens of people gather at Lagankhel bus station, one of the major transport hubs for travel within the Kathmandu Valley, listening as conductors call out their buses’ destinations. You have to be quick if you want a seat, or standing room, or something to hang on to. Photo: Patrick Ward

 

It’s not an easy school run, as people flock to the buses in the hope of squeezing themselves onboard. The brave, and desperate, scramble up the back of the bus to perch on the roof. Of course, if this bus is full (and the bus workers will only say so once every inch of space is full), there’s always the next one… Photo: Patrick Ward

It’s not an easy school run, as people flock to the buses in the hope of squeezing themselves onboard. The brave, and desperate, scramble up the back of the bus to perch on the roof. I don’t think this one will have quite enough room for me, despite the reassurances of the bus workers (who will routinely attempt to fill every inch of space with passengers). I decide to wait, there is bound to be space in one of the larger buses… Photo: Patrick Ward

…or not. Even the larger vehicles on longer routes are full to bursting. Photo: Patrick Ward

…or not. Even the buses on longer routes are full to bursting, with passengers finding foot-room among sacks of rice, cooking gas canisters and various other pieces of luggage. Photo: Patrick Ward

Here’s part of the problem. A kilometre-long line of buses waits for fuel at a petrol station. Stocks are only occasionally replenished, and it is common for drivers to wait several days to refuel. Some sit in their buses playing cards, some just go home and wait. Photo: Patrick Ward

Here’s part of the problem. A kilometre-long line of buses waits for fuel at a petrol station. Stocks are only occasionally replenished, and it is common for drivers to wait several days to refuel. Some sit in their buses playing cards, some just go home and wait. Photo: Patrick Ward

Rajul Mahnama waits by his minibus for fuel on Kathmandu's Ring Road. Like many others, he has been waiting days for a much-needed refill.

Rajul Mahnama waits in the line with his minibus. “I have been trying to get fuel for five days,” he tells me. “I’ve been here waiting with my bus all day, and I’m near the front, so I am hoping I will be lucky.”Photo: Patrick Ward

This is the view you want to see the most – the inside of a bus, sparsely packed enough to allow the arm movement required to take a photo. These early morning commuters have been smart enough to travel before rush hour, which sometimes helps. Photo: Patrick Ward

These early morning commuters have been smart enough to travel before rush hour, which sometimes helps. Photo: Patrick Ward

If that’s not possible, why not try the scenic option? Squeeze up together on the roof rack to get a nice view of the surroundings, but be careful to duck your head to avoid overhead power lines. Seriously. Photo: Patrick Ward

If that’s not possible, why not try the scenic option? Squeeze up together on the roof rack to get a nice view of the surroundings, but be careful to duck your head to avoid overhead power lines, or you’re liable to lose your hat, or worse. Seriously. Take it from someone who knows. Photo: Patrick Ward

If sightseeing isn’t on the agenda, there are always other options. This truck carried dozens of commuters into the village of Sangachok in Sindhupalchok. The sheer number of passengers disembarking suggests there are more comfortable ways to travel. Photo: Patrick Ward

If sightseeing isn’t on the agenda, there are always other options. This truck pulled up carrying dozens of commuters into the village of Sangachok in Sindhupalchok, in the wake of several severely overloaded public buses. Photo: Patrick Ward

But at the end of the day, when you see a scene like this one, at the Ekantakuna junction of the Kathmandu Ring Road, it might be time to give up. Perhaps a walk home doesn't sound so bad, after all. <em>Photo: Patrick Ward</em>

But at the end of the day, when you see a scene like this one, at the Ekantakuna junction of the Kathmandu Ring Road, it might be time to give up. Perhaps a walk home doesn’t sound so bad, after all. Photo: Patrick Ward