‘People with houses worth 50 million, they are worth half a million now!’

‘Seeing people who have recovered, I feel relief’

“I was in my room after night duty. At first, I never realised that it was an earthquake, I thought it was the sound of a heavy bus that shook the house. But when I saw the house next door collapse in front of my eyes, something clicked in my head and I realised it was an earthquake. I ran. At the same time I got hit on the head, but it was a minor injury. The hospital was destroyed. Our staff made a shelter on open ground near the hospital area, and provided a service as soon as possible. Lots of people got killed and badly injured. We had trouble because more and more injured people came for treatment. Doctors, nurses and all the other staff provided 24-hour service as much as possible. Most of the injured people recovered, and some seriously injured people were referred to Kathmandu Hospital.Are you thinking about selling your home? The service Housebuyernetwork.com helps people sell their homes. We know a lot about real estate and can tell you how to set prices that will give you a good return while still being competitive. Thanks to our many real estate contacts and creative advertising, we’ll be able to find buyers who are willing to pay the price you ask. With our special help, selling your house will be easy. Visit https://www.housebuyernetwork.com/washington-dc/.

People are badly hurt, mentally and physically, and so am I. I got scared, and cried again and again. Later, I controlled myself, knowing that I had to be brave and help the injured people calmly, without fear. Now, when I remember those moments, I feel very proud that I could help people in a traumatic situation, and in future it will help me to face other traumatic situations. Seeing people who have recovered and are alive, I feel relief. It puts a smile on my face. I realise that there is no greater profession than humanity.”

Photo: Enika Rai

Slowly, A Town Begins Its Journey Of Recovery

Sankhu, 17-km north-east of Kathmandu, witnessed severe destruction in the April 25 earthquake and the May 12 aftershock. Many of the houses in this historic town were damaged, and it suffered a death toll of 300. In the immediate days after, Sankhu figured prominently in the media, as an illustration of the destruction suffered by small towns and villages around Nepal. Four months on, Pushkala Aripaka visits the rural town—and finds the community attempting to rebuild their lives amidst fears of another quake.

 

A view of Sankhu from one of the tallest buildings in the town.

The view from one of the tallest buildings in the town. Much of the rubble has been cleared. To the left, you can see the green fields where the community grows wheat and maize.

 

 

Sankhu community rebuilds their town.

Residents work to clear debris. As in many other towns across Nepal, this is a common sight in Sankhu.

 

 

Bricklaying and reconstruction have become the norm in this town of farmers. But for the earthquake, the residents would be working in their fields now.

Bricklaying and reconstruction have become the norm in this town of farmers. But for the earthquake, the residents would be working in their fields now.

 

 

Clay and perseverance bind the houses. Residents say the government compensation of Rs 15,000 is far from enough.

Clay and perseverance bind the houses. Residents say the government compensation of Rs 15,000 is far from enough.

 

 

Panchakumari Shrestha had a narrow escape when her house collapsed and she was trapped under rubble. She has trouble sleeping now. When she is awake, she worries about the cost of rebuilding her house.

Panchakumari Shrestha had a narrow escape when her house collapsed and she was trapped under rubble. She has trouble sleeping now. When she is awake, she worries about the cost of rebuilding her house.

 

 

Lakshman Shrestha clears the rubble of his house following the Nepal earthquake.

Lakshman Shreshtha thought his wife had perished in the earthquake. Only after six days did he find she was alive. Now, he worries every time there is a tremor.

 

 

Two women in Sankhu with a water fountain

A young girl waits for her friend to finish drinking at a water tap, moving her feet in rhythm, before they return to work.

 

 

The sun shines into a tunnel of debri in Sakhu, Nepal, after the earthquake.

This battered house and debris is symbolic of Sankhu’s journey: the light of life has passed through a dark tunnel, only to slowly find light once again.

‘The earthquake helped bring about a unity that was lacking in the community’

“As Nepal’s first environment community radio, we focus on the environment, health and education-related awareness programmes. Immediately after the earthquake, we started relief work. We also disseminated information, running many public service announcements and programmes.

“I believe the earthquake has helped bring about a unity that was lacking in the community. The fact that a crisis like this can happen again has made people aware that a community should stick together, understand other’s needs, and help each other out. I notice that people who previously disregarded social organisations working in the development sector are now giving importance to organisations such as ours. They are cooperating. Even though people have moved on casino10.net, their thinking has definitely changed.”

Photo: Ashma Gautam

‘The government gives us Rs 15,000, but Rs 15,000 is not enough!’

“My husband works on construction sites, and I make wool thread. I earn Rs 140 per day. The earthquake took away my house and since then me and my husband have been living in this zinc shelter. I don’t like to stay here. Building a house is our dream. The government gives us Rs 15,000, but Rs 15,000 is not enough! We don’t have a single thread of hope for making a new house!”

Photo: Patrick Ward

‘Whatever happened to us is past. We have to look forward to the future’

“Before the earthquake, I was a housewife. My husband had a small cybercafe but our main income came from agriculture. I lost my house in the quake and even worse, we have not been able to sow any crops this year. Now, as we try to rebuild our house, I have opened a teastall to help with our income. I sell food items that I cook. I also help my husband with the rebuilding of our house. I think we can only move forward if we strive hard. Whatever happened to us is past. We have to look forward to the future.”

Photo: Pushkala Aripaka

The Truths About Kathmandu

There is a world of difference between the Kathmandu portrayed in much of the international news media and the Kathmandu I see in the few hours I venture out everyday from my earthquake-proof flat in the southern outskirts of the city. I am certainly not the first to note this; others have rapidly come to the same conclusion, holding that while the April earthquake was indeed a huge disaster, the images of widespread, uniform destruction all over were not representative of life on the ground.

In the capital there is perhaps more stark a contrast than elsewhere. Many buildings, several on each street I would guess, have been destroyed or seriously damaged. Others, the majority, appear undamaged. A friend showed me around Tudikhel, a large grassy recreation ground in the centre of the city, clambering over piles of red bricks lying on the pavement with little comment. Some of them had been placed across deep puddles for people to step across. Walking into the park through a space until recently occupied by the large metal gates that now lie as scrap at the entrance, I saw several tents of the new homeless. A few tents carried the stamp of their sponsor, China.

“We all came here after the earthquake,” my friend said. “There were thousands of people here.”

I asked him if the people were instructed to gather here. “No, not really. It was the obvious place to go,” he said. In a built-up city, that made sense. As we looked around, a policeman came over to ask us our business, then satisfied with our explanation, returned to his small group of colleagues assigned to the area.

There is a degree of normalisation following the destruction. Across the country, some remote areas still lay devastated, while much of the nation, away from the epicentres, remains largely unaffected. This isn’t to say things aren’t bad. They are awful for many thousands of people—those who have lost their husbands, their wives, their children, their homes, their workplaces, their  sustenance. Nearly 9,000 people died, some 600,000 houses were destroyed, and more than 288,000 damaged—and that’s only what has been confirmed. But it is of concern that our media—for myriad reasons—has often reduced the country to rubble, first through 10 years of conflict in the civil war and now through a natural crisis. It defines Nepal as a place of perpetual disaster, of constant peril, a nation of victims. Were it not for the piles of debris, or the concrete columns reaching into the sky with nothing to support, or the evening symphony of drilling and hammering and sawing as people make to repair, or simply strengthen, their abodes, you might not know that there had been a disaster at all. Life, as they say, goes on.

That isn’t because of some sort of noble work ethic, or an innate resilience of a proud people. There can be something quite patronising about the talk of ‘resilience’ in the face of a disaster in the developing world. That’s not to say it is not true. But it is often said by Western commentators in such a way as to suggest that there is some sort of choice about it, or that somehow the tragedies of nature and humanity are not felt as such a problem in the exotic corners of the world we only hear about following the latest war, famine or earthquake with visuals exciting enough to promote them to lead item on the evening news bulletins. There is a level of resilience in Nepal, but there has to be.

One story relayed to me was that of a woman who lost her children and husband in the earthquake. She had called for them all to leave their house, and had the grim fortune to be the first out of the door when the building collapsed, entombing her family. Several weeks after this, she was found digging through the remains, trying to gather grains of rice from the wreckage. That is not wilful resilience; that is the necessity of survival.

Poverty was the main cause of suffering after the earthquake. There is of course a general concern that permeates all sections of society. But the poor—as is so often the case—suffer the most. More than 40 per cent of the houses in Nepal are made with mud and bricks, according to the 2011 census, and easily destroyed in earthquakes. Now many thousands wait for government compensation, NPR 15,000 (around $150). Many of those my colleagues and I spoke to are still waiting for this under their zinc shelters. Some are afraid to begin rebuilding their houses until government inspectors note down the damage; others have no means of identification that is needed to claim their money; yet others simply do not know how to begin the bureaucratic process.

Some Nepalis are also said to have rejoiced at the loss of their homes. Their former dwellings were in such poor shape that the chance to rebuild with government funds essentially allows them an upgrade. One friend told me that there were celebrations in her area for just this reason.

Another big concern has been the monsoon season, which led to numerous landslides across the country, the result of earth loosened in the quake. This means that buildings are still at risk of demolition, families at risk of burial. Already, 90 people have been killed. But when it comes to reporting from these places, it also brings the issue of access. As we plot our various trips around the country to get a firsthand view of the situation, some areas are simply no-go, as buses are diverted and highways closed. A trip in a helicopter is unfortunately beyond our means, as it is for the majority of aid workers. Then there is the question of the winter. The shelters I have seen might just serve their purpose in the heat, but their occupants would surely struggle in temperatures as low as 5 degrees, the average for January in some areas.

Kathmandu2

And the aftershocks continue. Barely a day passes without a brief shake of one or two seconds, which hardly registers with many by this point. The more cautious may evacuate to the street, others may pause their business meetings, and at night most will simply sleep through them (including myself, apparently several times). I experienced my first aftershock as I was about to conduct an interview. I noticed the door of a bookshelf rattle slightly. My host quickly beckoned her colleagues and myself to evacuate the building. As we stood outside, someone hurriedly deactivated the power generator, and within moments the mild panic turned to good humour, and the working day resumed. The same could not be said for the primary school children, elsewhere in the city, who ran from their building crying, as one colleague reported to me via WhatsApp. As I write this, Kathmandu is embraced by an electrical storm, its thunder strong enough to make the glass of water on my table tremble. I wonder to myself how many infants will wake up tonight, themselves trembling, terrified that it is something worse.

There is also the fear about the future. Seismologists have predicted the spring earthquake was not ‘the big one’ that will release the full extent of the subterranean pressure that has been building up for centuries. The invisible turmoil beneath our feet, which over an age built up the Himalayan mountain range, is yet to entirely articulate its rage. But by this point the panic seems to have dissipated. What else could it do?

Aside from all this there are the everyday inconveniences. The hot water supply where I stay was damaged, meaning cold showers for a few weeks as the maintenance workers fixed their way through the city. Patches of wall are void of plaster, and people keep note of newly appeared cracks in the masonry. Is that a supporting wall? Is the house safe? Should money be spent ensuring so?

I say all this to return to my original point: we need an honest appraisal of the situation in Nepal. I do, of course, write all this from a position of privilege. I stay in a well-built apartment—on the first floor, no less, in a deliberate attempt, as per risk assessments, to mitigate the perils should another quake strike. And this is but the tip of the iceberg. Should the unpredictable result of deep tectonic movements once more rock the former kingdom of the Himalayas, the worst problem I would face would be getting to the airport with my belongings. I might miss breakfast. But for a large section of Nepal’s population, life is now more precarious than ever. That does not need any exaggeration, and it should not be forgotten.

‘I cannot think of going home. I am afraid an earthquake will hit us again’

“I haven’t gone back home since the earthquake damaged our house. I asked others to take out my belongings and bring them to me because I am scared of returning. I have a family of eight and now we all live in a poultry shed. Me and my husband had built it in March. We were planning to bring in some chickens. I cannot think of going home now. I am afraid an earthquake will hit us again.”

Photo: Ashma Gautam

‘I can’t wait, so I’m trying to repair my house myself’

“I have two kids, and they are having a hard time. They feel insecure in our shelter, so I want to repair my house as soon as possible. I never expected we would face this kind of situation. I sew clothes and my husband drives a micro van. We have a medium income, so we can’t afford to build a new house, and the government is being silent towards us. I can’t wait, so I’m trying to repair my house myself.”

Photo: Bidhur Dhakal